Another Kate (#4)

[93cubuff]

Still working on this pattern as a way to start learning married wing / classic flies. I never knew how much tension builds up as you get close to finishing these off! There's so many ways to screw things up. I added a strip of blue to the wing (which I saw in one of the recipes) and finally feel somewhat satisfied with my sides (finally got them in without coming unmarried). I also think this roof is my best yet. (Both improvements are in large part due to advice about material selection which makes such a big difference in performance on the hook. Using better feathers also really helped the improved look of the wing compared to my earlier try). For #4 I also spent way more time selecting hackle and feel it came out better. My topping is still poor. I just can't get it to look right no matter how much I tinker with it.

For kicks, I posted all 4 of my attempts at this fly in order, with the most recent on top. I'm still just a beginner with these and really appreciate all the comments and help.

Cheers, Dan



KATE- 3rd TRY


KATE- 2nd TRY


KATE- 1st TRY

[schroderfish]

They all look great. The wings are perfect in 3 and 4. Nice work.

[Marty]

It is your GP crest, get a good one and you have this fly dialed. Outstanding work.

The key to setting a good crest tail is tying in at the white part of the feather. Doing this will keep the barbs in place and they will not flare out on you. Same with the topping

[93cubuff]

Thanks Marty. I have a hard time finding crest feathers that are sized to a 1/0 hook like I'm using so I end up having to tie in above the white zone for the topping. I seem to have a bunch if small ones and long (5/0 or bigger). Guess I need to look harder. I appreciate the help as always. Dan

[gt05254]

The evolution of your tying ability is a delight to behold! For crests, contact Dave McNeese; he has the finest crests I've ever bought.
Again, great flies,
Gary

[FGS III]

Wow, you are really coming along nicely Dan!!

Your choice of hackle for this one is just right (length) in my eyes.

Push that tip up to shorten the tag. The tag doesn't always have to match the "barb to point" distance. Some hooks, like the one you are using, require a little artistic freedom which will go a long way to effect the overall look.

Great job on the sides and cheeks!! All lined up and flow with the wing!!

Your tying is really consistent such as the size of the heads, super sweet floss work, and clean looking overall. You are really close to finding "YOUR" groove.

I would suggest putting this pattern a side for a while and pick another pattern that has less parts and will let you focus on your tail and topping.....a Red Rover perhaps.

Frank

[flytyer]

Your flies have come a long way in a very short time. This is indicative of both you having good skills to begin with and your care to take the advice given by others on how to improve your flies and putting it into use. Well-done and far better than most folks could do on their 4th married wing. I would loose the blue in the wing. The only published dressing from the old masters I've seen the blue in the wing was in Kelson's, and I strongly suspect the editor of his book SALMON FLIES added the blue to the wing. Everyone else, including Kelson' friend and fishing companion Maxwell, doesn't have blue in the wing. To my eye, the blue in the wing detracts from the look of the fly, which is red and yellow.

Pryce-Tannat doesn't use the blue in the wing, and he is the only one who has the body made completely of floss, the other use floss for the rear body (and then only to the first tinsel rib), the rest of the body of their's is dubbing (added to split floss). Pryce-Tannat is also the only one you uses both teal and summer duck for sides, everyone else only uses teal.

Two things I'd change:

1) Mount the wings so the tips point down toward the body. It will make for a sleeker looking fly. Before anyone comments on this, I'm fully aware that some superb and well-known tyers tie their married wings in with the tip pointing up and not down. I still perfer the look of the wing tip pointing down, which is also how virtually all the old tyers did it.

2) To get the topping to lie against the top of the wing you need to use what Pryce-Tannat refers to as "nicking the rachis of the feather". I.e. use you thumbnail to put small nicks or depressions in the bottom of the topping rachis to get it to conform to the wing. Push you thumbnail into your forefinger's finger pad to do this. Start where the topping starts to move up away from the wing and put a nick there, one just below it, and one just above it. Then recheck to see how the topping is laying. If it needs a bit more adjustment, do the same thing starting where it starts to move away from the wing, one just below and one just above this second nick, etc. In very short order, the topping will lie exactly againt the top edge of the wing like you want it to. And the best part of doing it this way, is that when fished (I sure hope you fish KATE it is a first rate salmon and steelhead fly, one I use often in winter), the topping will keep its shape. Try it, you'll wonder why more modern authors don't mention this little technique.

Contray to what others may advise or think, I'm a firm believer in continuing with the same fly pattern until you get it down because you keep the materials, order of tying, overall, look and style the same. This enhances learning through practice. And the techniques you learn from tying KATE are applicable and used on all sorts of other patterns. Keep in mind, the more you practice the same fly, the better you get at it.

[Charlie]

I like number 3 the best!